Shaw Martin Margiela can be called one of the most interesting this week. It seems that John Galliano finally came to his senses after the scandalous dismissal from Dior and ready to do with no less enthusiasm than he had done previously. New collection for Martin Margiela has not looked solid quotations home and gets fairly balanced in the ratio of the author’s handwriting and the history of Galliano Martin Margiela. His favorite style of Old Hollywood 30-50-ies of the last century, the designer carefully intervene in a new job, season prints, lurex, leather and embroidered with multicolored crystals. Despite the eclectic collection was very artistic, but also very wearable.
The new collection was dedicated to the great House of the ballet. Inspired by the stories of the great dancers and choreographers Martha Graham, Merce Cunningham, Diaghilev, the designers have created one of the most spectacular works of the week. There were dresses for every taste – skirt tutu training over leggings, layered flowing dresses, oriental embroidery and gold stars in “Russian Seasons” Diaghilev style, heavy velvet and brilliant pleating. “We used to think that fashion – it is more about art than about the banal supply clothing” – shared before showing Perpalo Pichioli. “We want to see this show helped relive the unique moments of your life. We really love fashion. And this work – a good opportunity to describe a time in which we live “, – adds the second half of the design duo in the House of Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Since then, as chief designer in the Emanuel Ungaro took Fausto Pulizi, business obviously went smoothly. Fausto removed this characteristic House pomp and splendor, deftly modernized brand and opened it as if for the more youthful and fashionable audience. We can not say that this was done at the expense of simplicity or minimalism, it is no wonder since the beginning of his career, Fausto fashion critics called him “the new Gianni Versace.” Collection for autumn-winter 2016/17 became an ode to the style of the 70s of the last century, with its bohemian chic and charming lightness of being. Although Pulizi worried that his work for Ungaro little comes on the heels of Saint Laurent, we can say for sure that this collection has become one of the best for Emanuel Ungaro.
Mustard and emerald green, pale pink, and the color of absinthe, peach and salmon – the collection is filled with magical hues, and even more magical combinations thereof. Light flounces and brocade armor soft velvet and strict tweed, feminine translucent dress with embroidery and spolzshey stockings shiftless schoolgirl – in the new work Alessandro Dell’Acqua for Rochas was not revolutionary silhouettes or pretentious luxury, stylistic extremes or the desire to imitate the new designers Guard than sin many this week. Alessandro hard bends the line. When the designer began to work at the legendary French house, he admitted that he spent in the archive Rochas just one day, and there will be more to look, trying to create collections adjusted for today’s reality, and not on dusty pages of the past. And even more so without regard to the new geniuses.
Traditional Spanish brand specializing in working with leather goods is gradually becoming a new person – thanks to its creative director Jonathan Anderson. Despite the fact that the designer works in the house not so long ago, he was able to significantly change the face of the Loewe, grinding at its best features, adding sensuality and lightness. Golden corsets, leather ribbons sewn on top of weightless skirts, fringe and chain mail – many images are sexy and daring. Others on the other hand has been closed and complex. Sometimes it seemed that they share only the faces of cats, of which fashion critics quickly wrote off a sense of humor designer.